I found this to work great. Title Rear Knock Fixed.Good threads and links with pics also available on BBS Archives.The repair is done with only pulling 1 half axel out.The threads talk about flipping the drum around backwards and putting two sockets between hub flange and drum face, then putting axel nut on and pulling half azel and bearing from bearing mount. MAC Trailer Aftermarket Parts Inc., maintains an extensive inventory in our 30,000 sq ft warehouse.Can the work be done with the Rear Axle Assembly in place? Or does do you have to remove it completely from the car?Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Mac Tools 20V MCD791 Drill Driver / MCF891 Impact Wrench Brushless Combo Set at the best.See my thread about a week ago. Yukon Gear & Axle YT SA-01 Axle Side Seal Installation Tool.MG MGB Technical - Rear axle thrust washer R&R ? I'm about to embark on the Rear Axle "clonk" thrust washer replacement.MAC Trailer offers a full range of trailers to fit the needs of todays changing work environments: Dump Trailers, Flatbed Trailers, Pneumatic Tank Trailers, Transfer Trailers, Straight Truck Bodies and Liquid Tank Trailers. This includes over 80 tools available for rent in our stores, including everything from suspension, hub, and brake repairs, to engine rebuilds, clutch service, fuel system repairs, and cooling system and A/C tools.Number of Pieces: 1 Brand: MAC Tools Warranty: Yes. O’Reilly Auto Parts’ Loaner Tool Program provides tools for rent for a number of different jobs and specialty repairs.This let us know we wouldn't get the darn thing trapped in casing. One of us held our finger behind big pin in back and held the socket with the other tapped. Put a small ~7/16 socked on top of pin to be able to tap it down and get it started. The fiber washers go behind the sides gears, thrust washers behind top and bottom gears.We put our finger behind main pin and rotated the end available to us to the top at last point we could tap on it. When you look inside diff, their are four small gears, two top and bottom, two side to side. Got it pulled to within about 1/8", then a soft mallet against the back of the hub brought it on out.For ametures like me, you should have 2 fiber waskers and 2 copper looking thrust washers.Once we got everything back together, the gears all moved very smoothly and looked good. Found both thrust washers 1/3 thickness of new. When rolling the gears back out, need to hold top gear so it doesn't slip out of position.We found left fiber washer missing completely, other fiber wash 1/3 tickness of new. Missed the bottom gear holes line-up by one tooth on first try, but rolled evrything back out slowly to adjust bottom gear by one tooth. Then took a small film of gease and applied to thrust washers to stick them to planet gears top and bottom to help keep parts together as we rolled them in place. Rotated it around, put a punch through the hole we knocked the roll pin out of and removed the larger pin safely.Put side gears in first with new fiber washers behind them.
Axle Gasket Cleaner Tools Full Range OfI "measured" the slop at 7/16 clink-clink at the pinion roll before starting. Good thing line broke, it definitely needed replaced anyways.Job well done, knock is completely got and I am very happy.Could not have done it without the tech board.Thanks so much gentlemen for you time to post all these tricks in common language us ametuers can understand.Imust chime in, I must: Just did the clunkectomy in the 1977 roadster. We to Auto zone and they had in stock British brake line 51# length with end connectors already in place. Broke the rear brake line that ran over top of diff, it was very rusted. Rea-rend was left in car, replaced both complete rear wheel bearings so I pulled both shafts out. VicI completed the repairs on my 76B in 2 days, took my time. I washed out the case carefully as the ground up copper thrust had to go somewhere! I used 70-140 Redline Synthetic to refill. If your MGB has wire wheels, first check that the hubs and splines are not worn, as this can also be the origin of a clunk. This wear normally manifests itself as a clunk being both felt and heard initially upon acceleration and upon deceleration. I think that you'll find it to be a bit more useful-After many tens of thousands of miles, wear in the differential is inevitable. B runs like a champ no more clunk.Here's my rewrite of the article that Dan mentioned above. Followed directions and pictures. If care is taken, replacement of these inexpensive thrust washers is quite straightforward, the two different types used each being of one size only. If these and the driveshaft are sound, then the noise may be due to wear in the thrust washers of the planet gears of the differential. If your splines and hubs are sound, or if the car is fitted with steel wheels but the clunk persists, then the condition of both the universal joints of the driveshaft and its splines are worth investigating. Enter for mouse click mac osx chromeJust look and see if you spot any oil leaking out. Look on page 213 of your Bentley manual. The halfshaft (quartershaft) seal is the seal that keeps the oil in the axle from leaking out into your brake drums. May as well get it all done at the same time while it is up on the axle stands, right? A Halfshaft (sometimes also called a Quartershaft or an Axle Shaft) is the shaft that transmits power from the differential mechanism to the drive wheels. Grease the U-Joints, driveshaft splines, and the parking brake cable, too. You can also take a fast look at the brake linings to see if they are worn down close to the rivets that secure them to their steel shoes. Next, rotate the flange in the opposite direction and scribe another corresponding mark on the axle housing. Grip the differential flange that connects to the rear U-joint of the driveshaft and rotate it to take up any freeplay, then scribe a mark on its edge and a corresponding mark on the axle housing. That way your measurements will be as accurate as possible. Remember, rust is a heat insulator, and it is heat that triggers brake fade.Once the rear brakes are reassembled, set the parking brake so that the Halfshafts (quartershafts) cannot move. While you have the drums off to inspect the seals, you can clean off the rust and paint them with VHT engine paint. Spray the brake system with CRC Brakleen and inspect everything carefully. This potentially simple operation is made more difficult because the British decided to use a BSP square drive drain plug. If the marks are 10 mm apart (13 of rotation), you have a worn differential.Of course, before you can do anything with the differential you will need to drain the oil out. If the marks are 8mm apart (10 of rotation), you have a usable differential. Youll just end up with a ruined Allen wrench trying to get the plug out that way. Do not bother trying to use a hexagonal Allen wrench. The tool necessary to remove this charming drain plug from the bottom of the differential housing is a 7/16 extension for a square pipe plug. Of course, the British like to do things their own way, so their plug has a square hole in it for the wrench. Once you have gotten the drain plug out you have the option of swapping it for an American-made stainless steel BSP plug from a hardware store/plumbers shop. Sometimes you can get a cheap one from a plumbing supply house. MAC Tools makes them - I know because that is where I got mine.
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